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Baby Brunello di Montalcino... Rosso di Montalcino was introduced during the 1980’s, mainly to provide vineyards with cash flow whilst considerable capital was tied up in Brunello, due to its lengthy ageing in barrel. Rosso di Montalcino is also 100% Sangiovese however, only has to reach an alcohol level of 12 %, as opposed to 12.5% for Brunello, although one has to wonder if there is a significant difference in 0.5 percent of alcohol. Rosso di Montalcino has to be aged for one year only before release.
Vineyards officially registered as Brunello may use their grapes for Rosso however, if a vineyard is designated Rosso and therefore producing at a higher yield, the grapes may not be used for Brunello.
Regardless of Italy’s somewhat convoluted wine laws, the predominantly small growers of Montalcino are a very cohesive group and have self-imposed levels and vigilance in maintaining quality. Rosso di Montalcino not only offers totally respectable early consumption and an affordable insight to Sangiovese Grosso, it has also given producers far more flexibility, facilitating declassification of grapes or barrels to a lower wine, in much the same way the Bordeaux Chateau’s introduced second labels, and greatly improving the overall quality of the primary wine.
Conti Costanti is arguably the top producer in Brunello with a family history going back to the 13th century and have been making wine in Montalcino since the mid 16th century. Visit my website using the link below for a more detailed article, “In Tuscan Heaven”. http://www.thewanderingpalate.com/2007_jul_21.html
Also visit www.costanti.it
Tasting Note of Conti Costanti Rosso di Montalcino 2005 (tasted at the vineyard with Andrea Costanti; also re-visited several times in eateries around Tuscany as well as re-tasted here in Singapore, having purchased several cases for my personal consumption!)
Sweet, fruity perfume of ripe cherry and red plum, hints of ripe strawberry amongst bacon-fatty, smoky lard-like nuances of classy oak, overall attractive vinous quality similar to Pinot Noir. Very opulent with creamy layers of succulent, sweet plumy fruit on the palate, very fine-grained tannins kicking in early and the flavours turning to more sour cherry towards the back palate, also good tangy acidity adding some vitality. Very soft, plush and elegant, deceptively approachable and new world pinot noir-like however, the finish gives it away with earthy, black tea, persistent Sangiovese tannins.
For the record, the 2005 vintage in Tuscany was a difficult, plagued by heavy rains and quality very inconsistent. The better producers will of course make commendable wines and the fact is a lot of Brunello was declassified that year, so the way I see it, the 2005 is a considerably better wine with the addition of these grapes however, will always be more forward than other vintages.
You should also be aware there is only limited supply of the 2005 (having consumed a considerable amount myself!), so we will move on the 2006 once stocks run out. This is a very different vintage altogether, arguably one of the best vintages in 50 years, even surpassing 2004. This, the Conti Costanti Rosso 2006 is noticeably firmer with a deeper, more tannic structure and will require decanting and breathing for a few hours before serving.
Available from Huber’s concise range at the recession-friendly price of S$55
Cheers!
Curtis Marsh – The Wandering Palate
“Curtis Marsh is a fully independent wine, food and travel writer with over 30 years experience in hospitality, wine and media industries.”
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Sugarloaf Ridge Chardonnay 2007
very deceptive with little sign of the peach or apricot scents that dominated the nose
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